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I was fortunate in the fact that I'd previously fitted a screw-type round hatch many months earlier when fitting my stern light. I'd personally recommend that you fitted a screw type hatch in lieu of the fixed blanking cover that is supplied with the kit. It's quite possible that you may need access in the future and having to de-rivet the blanking cover would be a real pain.
It's worth removing the existing footrail assemblies at this point, 2 cross-head screws hold each footrail in place, removed these and the footrails will fall away.
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Front guide holes with grommets fitted
Take the supplied tubing and snip one end to a 45 degree angle, this will make inserting the tube into the grommets that much easier. Wet the tubing with very soapy water thus enabling the tube to slide through the grommets. Insert the tube into one of the footwell grommets from the footwell side. Thread it to the rear of the kayak keeping it between the tankwell and the outside wall of the kayak (outboard of the scupper holes).
Reach through the 4" access hole drilled previously and guide the tube through the stern grommet, paying attention that it's on the same side as the footwell grommet used previously. Pull the tube tight, removing any soap solution close to the grommet, this will prevent the tube sliding back into the yak. Once the tubing is taught cut the tubing 1" from the grommets as shown below.
The new footrails can be fitted at this point, refit as per the removal mentioned above, ensuring the pedal is towards the bow of the boat. You'll notice that these footrails use a different bolt hole to the removed type, however it's already existing so that makes life easy.
DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN !
Repeat for the other track.
The steering cables can be un-wound and straightened. Feed each cable through it's respective footwell grommet so all the excess passes through the stern grommet. Keep it tidy at this point as kinking it would be bad news.
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The rudder blade can now be fitted. Disassemble the large screw and bush assembly from the rudder body. Insert the bushing into the rudder blade prior to fitting and lining up the centre holes of the blade and the body. Fit the screw and nyloc nut. Again, do not over-tighten, the blade should be able to move freely. The photo below shows the rudder blade fitted, ignore the ropes, they are fitted at a later stage.
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The final job is to fit the supplied blanking plate to the 4" hole made earlier in the rear tankwell. Remove any debris and apply a bead of silicon to the mating surfaces and rivet in place.
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